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How to Rig Tube Flies
As tube flies are becoming more popular we see an increase in types of tubes and the ways that they are rigged with a hook. For the angler starting out with tube flies this can be a bit confusing. In this article I will summarize the most popular ways of rigging tube flies and when to use them.
We can basically discern two ways of rigging a tube and hook: connected or free swinging. Let’s first review some ways to rig a connected tube and hook.
Connected riggings
1. Direct connection; If we use a plastic tube with sufficient diameter to accept the eye of the hook, than we can directly connect the hook by inserting the eye into the plastic tube. Use a straight eye hook or a hook with a 15 degree up-eye for this. If the plastic of the tube is too rigid, this will not work. The length of the tube will determine the hook position; more towards the front or more towards the tail of the fly. The tubes that we sell are rigid enough to tie on yet soft enough to directly insert a hook into. On many of our commercial patterns you will notice that the tube is kept long enough to allow the hook to be place in the tail of the fly. If you prefer the hook more to the front of the pattern simply cut it shorter.
Fig. 1: A Bulkley Bandit with a directly inserted straight eye hook into a 3mm plastic tube. The hook is attached with an improved clinch knot.
2. Direct up-side-down connection; The hook is directly connected by inserting the hook up-side-down into the plastic tube. This way of rigging I use in two situations. The first is for my dry flies. The hook I use is a 15 degree up-eye hook and I insert it upside down, directly into the plastic tube. This helps to distribute the weight below the axis of the fly so that it rights itself better, the hook acts as a “keel”. It also brings the point of the hook in line with the axis of the fly. The second situation I use this way of rigging is when I am “bottom dredging”. I want the hook point to ride up, so that hooking the bottom becomes less likely. For this rigging I also use a 15 degree up-eye hook.
Fig 2: Direct up-side-down insertion; used for “bottom dredging” and dry flies. Note how the hook acts as a keel.
Fig 3: A Seeker Low Light dry fly with an up-side-down direct rigged 15 degree up-eye hook. Now how the hook will act as a keel to right the fly.
3. Junction tubing; Junction tubing is more flexible than the plastic tubes that are used for tying the pattern on. Because of this the insertion of the hook eye is easier with a junction tubing. There are a variety of types synthetics that are used for junction tubings. Some tend to be too stiff or stiffen over time, some tend to crack over time. By far the best material for junction tubing is PVC. It is very durable and remains flexible. There are two ways to rig the tubing. The junction tubing can be part of the pattern and tied into it, or the junction tubing can be attached to the fly after completion by simply sliding it onto the rear end of the tube. This method works well for small patterns with shorter tails and wings.
Fig 4: Junction tubing tied in as part of the pattern.
Fig 5: Magnum Opossum with integrated junction tube for direct rigging with straight eyed hooks and clinch knot or similar.
4. Free swinging – looped; A 45 degree up-eye hook is attached to the leader with a non-slip mono loop knot. The knot jams either against a liner tube, a small diameter tube or against a pinched part of the tube (see image). The advantage of this method is that the hook position can be varied easily. Some people feel that the free swinging hook results in better hook up rates. In my experience there is some truth to this. However, the disadvantage is that we have to use a looped up-eye hook. I have found this set up to have a good hook up rate but poor hook hold.
Fig 6: A free swinging rig; the loop knot jams against the small diameter of the liner tube.
Fig 7: Free swinging – looped: the loop knot jams against the compression point where the thread is tied in.
Fig 8: Derek’s Pink Fly; this fly has a line tube that stops about midway the 3mm tube. The looped rigging knot is blocked against the liner tube.
5. Free swinging – clinched; A straight eye hook, or 15 degree up-eye hook, is attached to the leader with a clinch type knot. I prefer an improved clinch knot. In order to keep the hook in line with the tube a piece (4-8mm) of small diameter junction tubing is slid onto the leader before the hook is tied on. After the hook is tied on the junction tubing is simply slid over the eye of the hooks. This keeps the hook tracking straight behind the tube. In my experience this way of rigging produces the best hook ups and hook holds. The disadvantage is that the position can not be modified as easily as can be done with a free swinging looped rigging.
Fig 9: 8mm Junction tubing on a 15 degree up-eye hook: for free swinging riggings.
Fig 10: A Black Runner: note the long tube to allow the hook position in the tail of the fly. Here the fly is rigged with a free swinging straight eye hook and a piece of Junction Tubing.
Some general remarks. I prefer hooks that are commonly referred to as “bait hooks”. Their shorter shank results in better hook holds. There are variations in the bend style of bait hooks; octopus, beaked, etc. I have not been able to tell a difference in hook hold between these varieties. Bait hooks are available with or without an off-set. I prefer an off-set. It significantly improves hook up rates. Off-sets do tend to weaken the strength of the hook. When you expect big fish make sure to pick a hook that has a high quality steel that is hardened. I like Partridge Patriot Stinger and Intruder hooks, they are off-set and extremely strong.
A word about eye angles. For looped connections I like a 45 degree up-eye. For direct up-side-down riggings I like a 15 degree up-eye. For direct and junction tube connections I like either a 15 degree up-eye or a straight eye.
Here in British Columbia we have a mandatory barbless hook rule. In my experience you will lose more fish on a barbless hook, especially fresh, acrobatic fish. This means that the right type of hook for optimal hook hold becomes very important. For example, the looped hook connections that we use in stinger/intruder flies and looped tube riggings will tend to pull the point of the hook less into the fish compared to a straight eye tube rigging. With barbless hooks this can make the difference between a landed and a lost fish. Big classic hooks without a barb have a very poor hook hold compared to tube riggings with bait style hooks.
I hope this helps make rigging tube flies a bit clearer for those that are new to tube flies. If you have a way of rigging that you like but I did not mention here I would love to hear about it in the comment section below.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”2/12″][vc_widget_sidebar sidebar_id=”sidebar1″][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/12″][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][/vc_column][/vc_row]
