Below is a sequence of tying steps for a Snow Runner brush fly. This patterns utilizes a number of specific materials and techniques that make it an attractive pattern for a wide variety of applications, such as saltwater baitfish patterns, steelhead patterns, chinook salmon patterns and pike flies to name a few. Some of the advantages of this concept pattern are:
- The use of a sparse Snow Runner brush creates a 3 dimensional teardrop shape with excellent translucency.
- The sparse Snow Runner brush further allows for a pattern that holds a minimal amount of water and is minimally air resistant; thus promoting great castability.
- The Brass Bead gives far better support to soft wing materials then a dubbing ball, and adds weight to the pattern.
- The Nutria underwing further adds support to the Snow Runner, thus maintaining a large silhouette while in the water.
- The large hole Bead Head, mounted directly on the 3mm plastic tube creates a very durable finish.
- The use of a transparent tube without materials that cover it helps with the general translucency of the pattern.
- The use of a tube helps with higher landing ratios due to better hook holds.
The Snow Runner brush fly concept allows the tier a wide variety of customizations, colour variation, additions of collars or over-wings, etc. It is relatively easy and fast to tie.
The materials for this fly are available from our shop at the following locations:
Snow Runner, Nutria, Brass Beads, Brass Bead Heads , 3mm plastic tubes, 1.8mm plastic tubes
Image 1:To start with we have to create a Snow Runner brush. You will need: one or two drills, stainless craft wire, a comb and scissors.
Image 2: Cut off some Snow Runner. Remove some of the under fur, but not too thoroughly, leave the medium length and longer under fur.
Fig 3: Attach the wire to one of the drills. Lay it over a book or something that is the height of the wire. Run the wire to the other drill. Temporarily secure the wire. Now place the Snow Runner evenly on the wire. Not too thick! Run the wire that you temporarily attached back to the first drill and attach it. Slide away the book and slowly spin both drills. Make sure the spin in opposite directions. Once the wire has gripped the hair securely start carefully combing the tangled hair. Continue to spin and comb until the hair is fully secure and evenly distributed.
Fig 4: The end result should look something like this.
Fig 5: Now we can start tying our fly. We will further need: nutria, 1.8mm tube, 3mm tube, brass bead, cone head or bead head.
Fig 6: Start by melting a flange on the 1.8mm tube.
Fig 7: Insert the flanged end into the 3mm tube.
Fig 8: Cut the end of the 1.8mm tube. Leave approximately 2mm sticking out.
Fig 9: Slide the brass bead onto the 3mm tube. It will seat against the bump that was created by the flange of the inner tube. This will secure the inner tube from sliding forward. When we finish the fly, the flange at the front of the 1.8mm tube will secure the tube from sliding backward. Thus we need not worry about glueing or securing with thread.
Fig 10: Insert the tube on a SRFS steel mandrel or similar device. Place in a tube holder. Attach thread in front of the bead.
Fig 11: Cut a bunch of nutria. Tie in and spin it around the tube. Bring the thread back, snug against the brass bead so that the nutria flares out. Nutria is flexible yet stiff and stands up very nicely in the current. It is a great support material for many types of wing material that are soft.
Fig 12: Tie in the Snow Runner brush.
Fig 13: Palmer the brush forward. You will only need two or three turns. You have now created a cylindrical, tear-drop shaped baitfish or squid pattern that is semi-translucent, maintains nice bulk and profile in the water, yet casts very easy. The Snow Runner, unlike synthetic fibres, is almost impervious to tangling from toothy fish. It is very durable and will last many fish. This basic technique, utilizing a Snow Runner brush, can be used for many types of patterns. Perfect for saltwater baitfish patterns, squid imitations, steelhead and chinook patterns or northern pike flies.
Fig 14: Add some flash to your liking.
Fig 15: Add one or two wraps of marabou or spin some fox tail hair in. I prefer marabou. It creates a more defined distinction between the Snow Runner than the fox. If a cone or bead head is used this will protect the marabou from wear and is quite durable.
Fig 16: Slide a bead head or cone head with 3.2mm hole onto the outer tube. Make sure to leave about 1mm of the outer tube extend beyond the bead.
Fig 17: Melt a flange. I turn the vice vertical, let the tube mandrel stick out about 2mm. Then melt the 1.8mm tube down onto and into the 3mm tube. Continue melting the two tubes together still you have a flange that is made up of the melted material of both tubes.
Fig 18: Here is a rear view of this pattern. Not how nice the fibbers flare. This will provide a nice profile when the pattern is fished, with lots of movement.
Fig 19: Front view of the large hole bead head and flange.
